The Legend of the Elopement of Bessie Surtees
There is a building on Newcastle’s Sandhill, next to the Quayside, which is synonymous with romance and daring do. The house is a black and white timber framed building, constructed in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Originally it was made up of ground floor shops, with fine apartments in the upper stories that often housed merchants. The building became famous after the dramatic event that took place one night in the early 1770s.
At that time, a successful banker called Aubone Surtees rented apartments on the Sandhill, along with his young family. Aubone had a beautiful daughter that he wanted to marry off to local grandee Sir Walter Blackett. The elderly Sir Walter took the young Bessie out riding frequently as part of his courtship. During one of those rides, Bessie met and fell in love with a penniless local boy, John Scott.
Bessie was soon packed off to relatives to nip this liaison in the bud. However, the plan failed spectacularly when she returned home, because on the 18 November 1772, the lovers eloped. Bessie climbed out of her chamber window using a ladder, and she and John rode off into the night.1 Hearing the escape, Aubone set his dogs on the fleeing lovers and the hounds snapped at Bessie and John’s horses as they galloped up the precipitous Dog Leap Stairs (a set of steep steps that linked the quayside to the upper town). 2
The fugitives eventually made it over the border into Scotland where they were married.
Eventually the couple returned to Newcastle and John Scott went on to achieve great wealth and fame as Chancellor of England.
And they lived happily ever after……
Lovers’ Meeting
So, how much of the tale is true?
Aubone and Bessie Surtees really did live in apartments on the Sandhill, while John Scott and his family lived nearby in the Parish of All Saints. While the Surtees family were well off, the Scott family were not as penniless as the tale implies. Scott senior was a successful coal fitter and merchant who owned £20,000 of property by the end of his life3 and had enough funds to send his son to Oxford to train as a curate.4
A good source of information on what happened that fateful night, can be found in The Life of Lord Eldon (as John Scott would become). This work is a collection of correspondence from John Scott, along with recollections and letters from his family, and friends, published in 1846, only eight years after his death. While the Life may well be sanitized for public consumption, it does not omit the famous elopement incident and may provide some insights into it.
Firstly, what do our romantic leads look like? The Life describes Bessie as possessing a childlike beauty, with her face framed by long flowing ringlets, she had a good figure, and a taste for simple but elegant frocks. John was described by contemporaries as being middling height, robust, with sparkling eyes and flowing hair (Bessie loved his long locks so much that she insisted that he retained this style all of his life).5
As the beautiful daughter of a successful banker, Bessie was on the marriage market. She attended society events, and clearly made conquests, even partnering the Duke of Cumberland at a local ball in Newcastle.
Sir Walter Blackett (1707-1777) was a powerful local grandee, Alderman, and MP. He and Bessie’s father were close friends and prominent members of the Corporation of Newcastle. Sir Walter, who had been recently widowed, is reported to have lent Bessie one of his ponies and they often rode together on the Shields Road in Newcastle. However, in 1772, Sir Walter’s parliamentary duties took him back to London.
Bessie, a keen equestrian, continued her rides accompanied by a manservant. Her brother, John Surtees, speculated that it was during these rides that John Scott first set eyes on Bessie. 6
As to whether Sir Walter had designs on Bessie, her brother thought not. Sir Walter was in his sixties, and recently widowed, John Surtees thought that the old man simply found Bessie a charming young companion. He believed that if Bessie had thought marriage was on the cards, she would surely have confided in her sister, which she did not.7 While this may all be an attempt to protect the reputation of one of Newcastle’s most powerful men, he was long dead by the time the Life was published. It may be that this element of the tale is pure embroidery to add the dramatic impetus of a forced marriage.
John Scott recalled that he first saw Bessie at church in Sedgefield in Durham, while Bessie was visiting her aunt Barbara.
From here, Bessie was whisked away on a protracted visit to her uncle, Mr Stephenson, who lived in Park Lane, London and also had a house at Taplow in Maidenhead. This visit could have been intended to launch the young girl into the London marriage market, but it also seems to have been intended to keep her away from the amorous glances of John Scott.
While in London, Bessie was clearly a hit with the Bon Ton. At a ball at Northumberland House, the Duchess of Northumberland enjoyed parading arm in arm with Bessie, introducing her to people as ‘My Newcastle beauty.’8
However, as the Life explains, if her extended trip to London and Taplow was designed to separate the lovers, it did not work. John Scott recalled that they managed to contrive meetings when Bessie was out walking with her relatives in Hyde Park.
John Scott was studying at Oxford, destined for a career in the Church, but his letters from this time show that he was falling head over heels in love with Bessie, so much so, that he was neglecting his studies and worried that his amorous obsession was beginning to bore his friends.
Throughout this period, John was fearful of losing Bessie to other suitors. He was also beginning to worry that Aubone was planning to take Bessie home to Newcastle and out of his reach.
Eventually these fears came true, and Bessie was called home. Perhaps before her departure, the lovers contrived to meet and plan the famous elopement.
The Elopement
The Life confirms that on the night of 18 November 1772, Bessie climbed down from her chamber window by ladder and fled with John Scott.
John later recalled his fine ‘generalship’ of the escape, stating:
“I eluded the vigilance of three watchmen stationed in the neighbourhood, without the assistance of a bribe; and contrived to be sixty miles from Newcastle before it was discovered that I had left the place. My wife is a perfect heroine and behaved with a courage that astonished me.” 9
The Life notes that they travelled to Black Shiels near Fala in Scotland, and comments that this was the last posting stage from Newcastle via Morpeth and Coldstream to Edinburgh. This suggests they probably travelled most of the way by coach rather than on horseback. On the morning of 19 November, at Black Shiels they were married by Mr Buchanan, Minister of the Episcopal Congregation of Haddington.
The Aftermath
The consequences of an elopement of this nature could be dire for a couple, as the elopement of Lydia and Wickham in Pride and Prejudice illustrates. The good name of the lady and her family could be irreparably damaged by such scandalous behaviour. This was quickly evident to Aubone, when he found his home besieged by constant stream of tourists and gawker who made such a nuisance of themselves that he felt obliged to move house. 10
For the errant couple, once the deed was done, it was important to build bridges with family and friends and attempt to repair reputational damage.
The couple spent their honeymoon at the Queen’s Head Inn in Morpeth. It was here that Bessie began a letter writing campaign designed to placate family and friends.11
Contributing to the Life, Miss Foster, a family friend, recalled that the bride considered these few days, waiting for news, to have been the most miserable of times. The couple had very little money and no home to go to. Added to this, John had to relinquish his fellowship at Oxford, a church career now barred to him because of his rash marriage. Without family support, the couple’s future looked bleak indeed.
However, as the Life reports, one morning when Bessie was looking out of the window of the Queen’s Head, she saw a large wolf dog that she recognised. Loup, as the dog was called, belonged to Henry Scott, John’s brother. Soon Henry appeared, bearing forgiveness, along with an invitation for the couple to live at the family home in the appropriately named Love Lane. I wonder if this anecdote is where the Dog Leap Stairs savage dog incident originates; Dog Leap Stairs were once known as Dog Loup Stairs and the dog here is called Loup12 – is this more than coincidence?
Aubone Surtees was a harder nut to crack, perhaps because a daughter’s reputation was a much more fragile commodity. However, John’s father William acted as peacemaker and soon the two men made financial provisions for the couple.
It was also agreed that the couple would remarry formally in St Nicholas Parish Church in Newcastle (now the Cathedral) to add a veneer of respectability to their union. This ceremony took place on 19 January 1773 and is recorded in the parish register. A polite line had finally been drawn under the young people’s impetuous actions.13
Rags to Riches
Finding a church career barred to him after his marriage, John swiftly focused on law and over time, became very successful and very wealthy. He was Lord Chancellor of England for many years14 and was eventually made Viscount Encombe, and 1st Earl of Eldon, transforming Bessie into Elizabeth, Countess of Eldon.
It would take too long to cover the rise to power of John Scott or outline his somewhat controversial politics, or even his problematic friendships (he was good friends with Andrew Robinson ‘Stoney’ Bowes, an infamous rake and terrible husband). Suffice to say, by the end of his life, John had amassed a fortune of £700,00015 and had come a long way from his humble beginnings.
Lover’s Parting
The couple had a long and loving marriage, but it was not without its problems. Their first child, John, was born in 1774 but nearly cost Bessie her life. They did not have another child for nearly ten years but did go on to have three (or four) children in total.
Bessie died on 28 June 1831 following a long illness. John had lost the love of his life, the woman who risked all for him when he was a penniless student and who been with him every step of the way during his meteoric rise. He was inconsolable, his friends worried for his health. He himself describes being in floods of tears and unable to meet with friends for fear of falling apart. Nevertheless, he found solace in work and soon threw himself back into his public duties.16
Bessie was buried near their favourite country seat, Encombe Place in Dorset, in a family vault in the nearby parish church in Kingston. John Scott joined her 7 years later.17
Autopsy
Throughout the story, Bessie takes centre stage, shaping her own fate in a way that many eighteenth century women could only dream of. However, despite this determination and courage, she was described by contemporaries as a very reserved and quiet person. After the scandalous events of her elopement, she went on to lead a very private life in contrast to her husband’s very public one. So much so, that when she died, the Life reports that many of Lord Eldon’s friends did not know her personally. I find this quite sad, but perhaps it was her choice.
The Life also reports that she retained her youthful grace into later life, however, as she aged, she continued to favour the fashions of her youth, even powdering her hair long after it was no longer in vogue. One cannot help but wonder whether she was stuck in the past or if she was just a hopeless romantic?
One thing I found particularly frustrating about researching this post was that I could not find a portrait of Bessie. Perhaps a portrait is out there somewhere – I would love to hear from anyone who knows.
Bessie Surtees House Today
Bessie Surtees House is sadly no longer open to the public, but if you look up at the first-floor window on the far left, you can see a casement window with a single pane of pale blue glass. This marks the window from which Bessie Surtees took her future into her own hands and descended into the arms of her waiting lover, and into local legend.
Notes
[1] The Monthly Chronicle of North-Country Lore and Legend June 1888
[2] Alan Robinson, Weird Walks: The Dark Side of Newcastle – Bessie Surtees’ House
[3] Wikipedia
[4] Historic England, Teachers Kit – Bessie Surtees House
[5] Dr Marjorie Bloy, The Daring Elopement of Bessie Surtees
[6] Horace Twiss, Public and private life of Lord Chancellor Eldon : with selections from his correspondence 1787-1849
[7] Ibid
[8] Ibid
[9] Ibid
[10] Find a Grave Memorial, Elizabeth “Bessie” Surtees Scott
[11] Horace Twiss, Public and private life of Lord Chancellor Eldon : with selections from his correspondence 1787-1849
[12] TW Sitelines, Newcastle, The Side, Dog Leap Stairs
[13] Horace Twiss, Public and private life of Lord Chancellor Eldon : with selections from his correspondence 1787-1849
[14] Wikipedia
[15] Dr Marjorie Bloy, The Daring Elopement of Bessie Surtees
[16] Horace Twiss, Public and private life of Lord Chancellor Eldon : with selections from his correspondence 1787-1849
[17] Find a Grave Memorial, Elizabeth “Bessie” Surtees Scott
Bibliography
Bloy, Dr Marjorie, The Daring Elopement of Bessie Surtees, via “A Web of English History by Dr Marjorie Bloy” at https://www.historyhome.co.uk/people/eldon.htm
Elizabeth “Bessie” Surtees (1754-1831) Elizabeth “Bessie” Surtees (1754-1831) | Co-Curate (ncl.ac.uk)
Elizabeth “Bessie” Surtees Scott Elizabeth “Bessie” Surtees Scott (1754-1831) – Find a Grave Memorial
Historic England, Teachers Kit – Bessie Surtees House historicengland.org.uk/content/docs/education/explorer/teachers-kit-bessie-surtees-house-pdf/
Melikan, Rose, 1999, John Scott Lord Eldon, 1751-1838: A duty of loyalty, Cambs U P 1 https://assets.cambridge.org/97805216/23957/sample/9780521623957ws.pdf
The Monthly Chronicle of North-Country Lore and Legend 1888, Vol.II – No.16 June 1888, Printed by Walter Scott, Newcastle upon Tyne.
The Monthly Chronicle of North-Country Lore and Legend, Vol IV – No.39 May 1890, printed by Walter Scott, Newcastle upon Tyne.
Robinson, Alan, 2022, Weird Walks: The Dark Side of Newcastle – Bessie Surtees’ House, You Tube.
TW Sitelines, Newcastle, The Side, Dog Leap Stairs, https://sitelines.newcastle.gov.uk/SMR/9916
Twiss, Horace, 1846, Public and private life of Lord Chancellor Eldon : with selections from his correspondence 1787-1849, Vol 1&2, Imprint: London : J. Murray
Wikipedia John Scott, 1st Earl of Eldon, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Scott,_1st_Earl_of_Eldon
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